[skater74life]

Joined because of this thread. Tired of disassembling and reassembling and having leaks after a day or less of play. I have almost the identical setup with a breacher on HPA I'm praying that using the cut spring from the tm valve on the SAT will fix the leaks for good. Thank you for all your updates! I'll post my pictures if it works.

Update: okay so I cut the spring and reinstalled on the SAT high output valve. well it holds a seal when the air is connected but after 2 shots it will start leaking heavily until the tank is empty. If I disconnect the the air and rack the gun and pull the trigger a few times and reconnect it holds pressure again. any ideas would be useful.

 

[Kln75]

I think I may of found one.

Is this the correct part?

Any one have any input?

 

[Wingman703]

Its not the one I used, so I can't say one way or the other. I used a barb/thread fitting instead of a push to fit.

 

[Whalesmash]

I used: Palmers

and then a standard npt connector from amped.

 

[skater74life]

This may help someone in the future. I have my breacher with an angry gun stock working with a proarms valve with an additional washer above the valve spring. I tried the stock spring with 4 coils cut and was unsuccessful at striping the leak. Hopefully it lasts this time. I'll keep you updated.

 

[Kln75]

Its not the one I used, so I can't say one way or the other. I used a barb/thread fitting instead of a push to fit.

Did you happen to buy it off amazon? And do you have a link?

 

[Wingman703]

No, I went to a local hardware store with the male HPA fitting and found something with the right threading and properly sized barb.

 

[Kln75]

So I'm trying to split my stock to do the HPA mod and while the glue on the pillars is separating whatever is used to hold the actual seam line is not. Any suggestions?

 

[Wingman703]

Some heat and patience. I didn't have to use heat, I just used a sharp knife and tiny screwdrivers. Starting at one end is easiest, as you can get them to peel a tiny bit, allowing a wedge in and the process to start.
Just remember, take it SLOW and be CAREFUL. I took my sweet time, and it sill came out a tad on the rough side, however this might have be avoidable had I used a heat source. Do NOT try to peel an entire half, you gotta go at it in multiple passes, 1/4in at a time. You try to unseal to much to fast, and the stock is more then willing to reward you with some massive cracks.

 

[258eagle]

Joined because of this thread. Tired of disassembling and reassembling and having leaks after a day or less of play. I have almost the identical setup with a breacher on HPA I'm praying that using the cut spring from the tm valve on the SAT will fix the leaks for good. Thank you for all your updates! I'll post my pictures if it works.

Update: okay so I cut the spring and reinstalled on the SAT high output valve. well it holds a seal when the air is connected but after 2 shots it will start leaking heavily until the tank is empty. If I disconnect the the air and rack the gun and pull the trigger a few times and reconnect it holds pressure again. any ideas would be useful.

you need some oil in there

 

[258eagle]

Waaay late update-

I am approaching 100k rounds through the shotty.

Things that utterly broke-
the internal assembly shell. deeply disappointed that it is plastic, the pump arm tracks on the shell and the hammer tracks have completely worn through. I found a kind fellow who sold me a spare shell but I may be attempting to make an aluminum shell soon.

The stock trigger sear is worn down to where it is no longer functioning

the teeth on the sear are no longer grabbing the hammer.

Still no leaks after this valve mod. I regularly spray oil in the hpa line to get oil inside the valve and all good. No photo but one sad thing is the SAT valve hammer pin has begun mushrooming from all the hit from the hammer. but other than that all good.

Hop up nubs are still working which is a surprise.

Overall I am still in love with this shotty. I am using 6 shot more and more during 'town games' and it is devastating.

I made a rough video of the valve fix to be a guide for others needing more clarity.

Thanks guys!

Remember all these mods (except stock splitting) will also be applicable to the new tm ksg shotgun.

 

[Commander_shotty]

Nice pants (2020. .)

 

[Holy_Schmidt1796]

I would like to report that after 60k rounds my shotgun has died for the first time. The problem that I have ran into is that I can not rack the pump. When I dissembled it there is a crack in the shell over the larger body pin however everything else looks fine so I'm very curious what is the problem with it cuz everything looks in tack

 

[lafittejean]

This doesn't tie directly to the shotgun, but could this A&K 1892 http://www.evike.com/products/37752/ with its tube feed be redone as easily as the shotguns for HPA?

 

[258eagle]

HPA'ing

here is a reiteration; I thought it was straight forward but others have been expressing more details.

so yes you can do this with macro line but they break, leak when twisted and are in general; terrible. So i HIGHLY recommend an amped igl, any that has a slip connector will do.

materials-
-super glue
-flat head
-amped airsoft igl
-8mm slip connector (8mmx 1/8" threads)
-crescent wrench
-phillips head driver

1-Strip off the shrink wrap and expose the nuts

2-remove the attached 6mm slip connector

3- you will later glue the stock together; so repairing leaks inside the stock will be troublesome; wrap that ish in teflon (i assembled everything without glue first and tested the seals)

3.1-attach the 8mm slip connector

4- split the stock. sometimes the glue isn't great and you can pull it apart. other times it is overkill.
I couldn't pull apart the stock to get a gap to use a flat head to split the stock.

Use a fine tip flat head; hammer the flat head into the seam where you will eventually cut a hole for the hpa line to minimize cosmetic damage

4.1- slowly but surely work the stock apart. the more care taken the less damage done.

5- drill/file a hole to accommodate the hpa line

5.1- route the macro line so that the screw guide can fit(this example doesn't show the igl but same principle)

6- assemble and test with air hooked up

7- if no leaks; super glue the barbs and assemble the stock- done!

BOOM

 

[gone123]

Can you do this with the breacher?

 

[Wingman703]

Should be able to, line just runs into the grip instead of the stock.

 

[gone123]

Ok. I heard if your screw up it's gg

 

[Raven1st]

You can always mod a cartridge for the breacher. If you mess up just run a new cartridge.

 

[gone123]

Very true, but wouldn't going straight to the tank make it more consistent?
Looks like this is even easier than using the regular size!