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Elite Force 1911 or ASG CZ P-09 (or other)?

5.7K views 55 replies 5 participants last post by  SkyEye  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all! I’ve been playing airsoft for about a year now and I think I’m ready to get my first gas blow back pistol. As the title explains I am kind of on the fence between the Elite Force 1911 and the ASG CZ P-09. Though most reviews and people would suggest the 1911, I’ve seen others tell horror stories about them failing epically. What would you suggest? In addition if you have any suggestions for a different pistol, please let me know. My criteria is as follows.
Price: Under $150
Model: No preference
Type: Gas Blowback Pistol
Play style: Last resort reliable pistol and for CQB (and just to plink)
Let me know what you think. Thanks!
Oh! And one last thing. I live in Arizona where it gets super hot or at least warm most of the time, so take that into consideration with gas type.
 
#3 ·
Actually the P-09 I was looking back was like 119$ or 129$. Yeah, I was kind of leaning more towards that. What are the most common or potential issues or breaking parts, how easy are those to replace?
 
#5 ·
Nothing break after 3000 rounds of green gas and 1000 rounds of CO2, look pretty neat nothing break, i heard the old version's hop up screw got issues and blowback is weak but mine is new so it is fine and i heard asg is trying to get all old version back to fix that issue so even if you did get one asg will fix it for you, there are not much upgrades for it but you won't need any, and um just a reminder on the field strip reassembly, there is a pin near the safety you need to hold down to let the slide get back on the frame
 
#6 ·
The EF 1911 kicks the hardest out of any GBB I've ever shot, but that's one of its problems. The pot metal slide can't take it. KJW 1911's are good like Spitfire said, if you'd rather have a 1911. The P09 is OEM'd by KJW, so it has good quality parts and good performance. I'd say get the green gas one and use propane. There are some upgrade parts available, I believe RA tech has some. You can definitely upgrade the barrel and bucking, it seems a Maple Leaf Crazy Jet barrel with a ML Autobot bucking is a very good choice.
 
#12 ·
In Arizona...you will get more that 300fps with GG. With the heat and the thinner atmosphere...I wouldn't be surprised if your mag locked up in high heat. If it does fire on a 90 degree day you will be in the mid to high 300's.

And don't use CO2. The abuse to your pistol in not worth it. Plus CO2 is costly and difficult to use.

By use, I mean usage efficiency. Shoot half a jet of bbs and what are you going to do next round? Burn half the jet or risk getting some weak shots at the end of the cycle? GG just top off your mags each round...being AZ...that is the best place to run a GG gun.
 
#13 ·
That is correct assuming the user live in a hot place in which it depends on the case, at cold climate, a few weak shot from CO2 is better than green gas which can't even clear the mag, besides you can always swap out the capsule if it is almost out, that is kind of wasteful but oh well
 
#14 ·
Which is the point of him pointing out he is in AZ "...I live in Arizona..."

CO2 is not great for cold either. In rapid fire the liquid changes to a solid and you have no pressure. Under rapid fire a Co2 mag can drop 60fps at 65 degrees....that not great for consistency.

You can mitigate that with a valve job.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Which is the point of him pointing out he is in AZ "...I live in Arizona..."

CO2 is not great for cold either. In rapid fire the liquid changes to a solid and you have no pressure. Under rapid fire a Co2 mag can drop 60fps at 65 degrees....that not great for consistency.

You can mitigate that with a valve job.
It will not turn solid, even at 73 atm your co2 will need to hit negative 56 degree celcius to become solid, that won't happen, in which most 12g co2 only have around 55atm at normal room temperature, which will drop on cold weather so no it won't turn into ice unless you throw it in a super powerful freezer
P1V1/T1=P2V2/T2
If T2 drop P2 will also drop to maintain constant, won't be much of a problem tho as the P of CO2 is so huge it will literally rip apart a green gas gun
And i highly recommend you to check your gun for such high fps drop as it is usually a leak at the valve or airseal between cartilage and mag gone bad as you leave the cartilage screwed in(doesn't matter if there is gas in it)
 
#16 ·
The reviews for the P-09 says that it gets approximately 300-330 FPS with green gas, and I’ve purchased a green gas mag as well as 2 canisters of green gas. I may need some help on GBB maintence but I’ll start a whole other thread on that.
 
#17 ·
If you use propane it will be healthier. It doesn't get silicon oil in the barrel or bucking.
 
#20 ·
I've heard the propane in the blue cans(don't remember the brand) is more consistent & doesn't smell as terrible. I do after every time I use my gas guns. I use superlube or silicone oil on the slide rails, piston head o-ring, and other friction bearing surfaces.
 
#22 ·
Blue would be Bernzamatic.

No...No silicone, to runny.

Grease the hammer group. Silicone oil is useless for GBB's. To runny for the rails and it attracts dirt when it creeps everywhere else. Under pressure from gas it will eat lower grade rubber and urethane seals. This comment about keep the mag seals lubed is dated, a myth and useless when the seal type is not known. If you ever had a mag with a base seal leak..thank Silicone oil for that or any other impurities found in CHEAP Green Gas.

Use a high viscosity non-creeping gun oil for the slide rails. If you have a real gun...use that same oil.

Here is the inside of an outer barrel...oily and gritty from to much silicone oil in the gas path.


Barrel was coated and the user complained of ineffective hopup, I wonder why? Could it be due to the oil that is coated on your hop-up packing that renders it nearly gripless? Gee I wonder... (Sorry being sarcastic)
 

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#25 · (Edited)
Ok. I'll look around for some gun oil then. If I use silicone in low amounts so that it doesn't run or clump up, will that work?
Don't use petroleum based oil like gun oil as it will damage the plastic frame, silcone oil are neutral so it will not damage your rubber seal while acetone in gun oil will eat it away, don't try that especially if you are going with polymer framed gun(not sure for for real steel but NO for airsoft),as for silicone oil use 100% pure silcone oil to lube up your seals as it is neutral to rubber(100% a must), as for gas go with propane if you want best performance as it won't get oil in the hop up bucking of the gun, but you need to lube the seals of the gun like the piston manually, disassembling the mags to lube the seals, which you don't need with green gas(for lazy guy like me), as for cleaning barrel use rubbing alcohol(personally i use ethyl), recommend you to remove the bucking first as alcohol damage some plastic or cause rubber to loss elascity after long exposure,for cleaning the hop up bucking use warm water with bit of soap as it really help getting rid of those oil if you use green gas and won't damage the bucking as most rubber nowadays are resistant to aqueous and ionic solution as long as the concentration of OH+ or H+ isn't really high in which soap is perfect, use a bit of silicon oil to lub the rails but not too much as it will go everywhere due to the low vicosity and it will attract dirt EVERYWHERE, and really the hop up issue isn't that big to me as i don't see any big drop in range
 
#26 · (Edited)
The Petroleum based comment is very dated, generalized comment. As well as the need to "lube seals. What you are telling others is very true for Airsoft back nearly 20 years ago. However it is not entirely true today.

You can sill use Silicone Oil for lubrication, it is just not the ideal oil.

Tecytl 900 is a "petroleum" based gun oil that is safe for polymers and used by the US Military. Rather it was the solvent carrier in the "petroleum" spray lubes that caused issue with legacy polymer Airsoft parts from Japan. Today many of Taiwan makers have addressed the issue of the legacy parts. Even Japanese items are resistant to the solvents.

However, the internet is still propagating the myth as gospel when in fact it is not any more.

Many of the better seals in the magazine valve are Buna-N or Viton and thus requires no lube at all and is itself resistant to oil.

Curious Leerihai. When you buy "dry ice" at that store. Isn't that CO2 in solid form? And isn't that that existing in that state in only one ATM of pressure?
 
#27 · (Edited)
Yes But it is freezing cold(-109F and -78C you surely won't be airsofting that temperature) it will turn to gas even in your upper fridge, also about the Tectyl 900, as long as didn't have acetone, ethyl-acetate, benzene, toluene or chloroform should be fine
 
#28 ·
Which it doesn't...that is why the general term of Petroleum is not entirely accurate.

On CO2 yes the temp is near that cold around the solid CO2 as it sublimates. But, the point is...that it's a solid and the ATM is only ~1.
 
#29 ·
Nice might give that a try
Well yes on CO2 it can exist as solid at 1 atm while absorbing energy from the environment rapidly
But if you are trying to make it while not pressurizing it, good luck on finding such super refrigerator [emoji854]
 
#30 ·
And that is why I am saying you can achieve by super cooling a jet or a Co2 bottle. You can get it to turn into a solid by rapid fire.
 
#34 ·
Nope.

I can send you a tube of the Tectyl 900. 5.00 shipped and you can use it on real steel unlike Silicone Oil which you shouldn't.
 
#38 ·
No they don't...if you must use Silicone oil get high viscosity Silicone oil 15W at a hobby store.
 
#40 ·
That is a given. These guns were designed around the 110psi pressure point. Then some French idiot decides to create a market where these guys should run on a 800+psi power source. Not very smart for many of the stock models back in 2003 started blowing bits all over the fields.

They made some reinforcement, but not of all the necessary parts and thus you get premature wear due the the compound stresses of CO2.