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Lipo/mosfet getting hot, nothing else

6.4K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  adas1223  
#1 ·
Hello,

I recently wired in a 3034 based mosfet with a 30 AMP blade fuse into my ICS CXP APE; while i was at it i reshimmed, aoe corrected, and lubed the gearbox, and wired to XT-60's. After i did this however, with a 11.1 1300Mah 25-50C rated lipo after about 20 shots the battery is HOT, and the mosfet is pretty warm/hot as well, though not as hot as the battery.

I've checked any wiring breaks, grounds on the gearbox or body, my shimming, motor angle, piston interference, and the solder joints on both the batteries's connector and the guns connector.

Its running with the stock ICS Turbo 3000 motor; there is no grinding, and this is dry firing with no BB's, so its not a jammed BB or such. The motor is also staying cool, and not getting hot.

I've searched and searched and the only thing i found that could cause it would be the wrong mosfet for the wattage I'm pulling? I've never heard of that before in airsoft, but if someone could explain that i would be appreciative.
 
#3 ·
Yes; a 11.1 30C 3000 Mah was tried, a 11.1 1200mah 15c buffer tube lipo, and even at one point a 9.6NiMH was tried; all of them get hot within 20 shots. i was reading somewhere about how certain mosfets don't necessarily fail, but the printed boards do; could it be that when i re-soldered the connections i damaged the board, and therefore its getting hot? Its not mechanical resistance so it has to be electrical resistance somewhere; and the wires further down towards the gearbox and motor are not hot at all; the battery is very hot, the mosfet is very hot, and the wires between them get warm, but not hot. I've also tried multiple blade fuses, thinking it might be resistance in the fuse itself, but it changed nothing, even when changing the amperage of the fuse.
 
#5 ·
If the mosfet isn't functioning you'd still get trigger contact arcing right? You could check for that.
 
#7 ·
Sounds like a short to me...
 
#8 ·
Check the amps to see how well the gun cycles

Where did you get the 3034 - fleabay = possible/likely fake
only buy 3034's from digikey mouser farnell RS or reputable places
most stuff on fleabay are fakes which will blow on stock 10 amps

Like them Big Dragon ACM mosfet boards with the blade fuse included
they blow very easily coz the mosfet is fake crap

Did you use a tvs diode or schottky diode across the motor like ICS recommend
at least something or one of them to reduce spikes would be a wise consideration too

check ya wiring, check your amps or you fried the 3034 by soldering too much too long
(of it was a fake)
 
#10 ·
ICS suggest a diode on their motors, just saying what they themselves say
personally if they thought it was a good idea why not install one in the first place


TVS diode on mosfet, well most mosfets will have some protection
the 3034 has one built in, but from a high amp build/motor the spikes can be way ott



I know people have ignored the TVS on 3034
my own gut feeling is perhaps TVS or ICS across motor to lower spikes

think high amps, cooked 3034 or likely a fake one from fleabay
 

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