Your best bet is to convert over to deans connectors.

 

Remove all Tamiya connectors and toss them in the garbage, then buy some Deans or XT60 connectors and solder on your gun, battery and charger.

 

Remove all Tamiya connectors and toss them in the garbage, then buy some Deans or XT60 connectors and solder on your gun, battery and charger.

yes, I plan on converting in the future but right now all my batteries are tamiya and I don't have the time or money (or a soldering iron) to replace them. Would my idea of removing the connector and some wire from my dumb charger work at all?

 

yes, I plan on converting in the future but right now all my batteries are tamiya and I don't have the time or money (or a soldering iron) to replace them. Would my idea of removing the connector and some wire from my dumb charger work at all?

In my honest opinion, if your willing to pay a tech at your field to fix the connectors, why not just pay him to swap your connectors to deans? It's cheap (as long as your tech is honest) and it only takes a few minutes for an experienced tech to do. Just ask him to make a Tamiya to deans converter for your batteries until you make the full conversion, they are simple to make and most techs already have a few pre made for such occasions.

 

In my honest opinion, if your willing to pay a tech at your field to fix the connectors, why not just pay him to swap your connectors to deans? It's cheap (as long as your tech is honest) and it only takes a few minutes for an experienced tech to do. Just ask him to make a Tamiya to deans converter for your batteries until you make the full conversion, they are simple to make and most techs already have a few pre made for such occasions.

my techs at my field are ANYTHING but honest now that I think about it. My field is absolute garbage, that's why I normally play (legally) on private property. Anyway, if I had more time and wasn't short on cash, I would totally make the switch. My friends endlessly praise deans connectors, and I definitely want to switch. I just don't have the time or the money to switch right now. Also, i'm borrowing this gun from a friend while he's out of town, and I don't think the idea of deans has won him over like it has me. So, I'll probably end up having to take it to a tech at my crap field and overpay, but for now, would snipping off a tamiya connector and some connected wire from a dumb charger and splicing it (safely) to the disconnected wires on the gun work as a temporary fix until then?

 

The wire on the charger is only rated to charge, not take the full current a battery will put out when connected to the motor. You won't get a good electrical connection by 'splicing' the wires together. Because you don't have a soldering iron I'm going to assume you mean simply twisting the wires together. It might be OK if you use a proper electrical connector, one of the screw terminal ones.
So all in all, yep it's a dumb idea. Get it fixed properly.
The reason this happens is that people grab the wires to pull the connector apart. Don't! Another reason that Deans connectors win. They're chunky enough to get hold of and seperate without straining the wire.

 

It'll work, if you do the "Western Union Splice" it should hold well, but it's a temporary fix at best.

 

The wire on the charger is only rated to charge, not take the full current a battery will put out when connected to the motor. You won't get a good electrical connection by 'splicing' the wires together. Because you don't have a soldering iron I'm going to assume you mean simply twisting the wires together. It might be OK if you use a proper electrical connector, one of the screw terminal ones.
So all in all, yep it's a dumb idea. Get it fixed properly.
The reason this happens is that people grab the wires to pull the connector apart. Don't! Another reason that Deans connectors win. They're chunky enough to get hold of and seperate without straining the wire.

other than having a tech do it, how could I do it myself? What would I need to purchase?

 

Start with post #91 and you'll get the basics of what you need to do, you'll just have to apply it to your needs.

http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forum...ty.com/forums/f10/boogermc-s-airsoft-engineering-tricks-tips-106984/index3.html

You can get a decent, cheap soldering iron at Walmart. Just choose your poison.

https://www.walmart.com/search/?query=soldering iron&typeahead=soldering

I use the one for $5.77 and it works just fine. I use this solder or one like it, just be sure to get lead free and as close to the 96/4 mixture.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Alpha-Fr...Fry-Fry-Technologies-AM62964-Cookson-Elect-Lead-Free-Rosin-Core-Solder/19868098

Just about any flux will do as long as it's for electrical solder, but the paste is probably best.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rectorseal-282267-Paste-Solder-Flux-4Oz-Lf/37906881

Hope this helps.

 

just be sure to get lead free and as close to the 96/4 mixture.

I'd not worry so much about lead free. For a novice working with solder, lead makes it flow nicely. I'm still using stuff I've had kicking around from the 80's that's rosen core 1/16" with some lead in it. I can't read the label anymore, but from how it flows, and tins connections nicely, it's probably ~15-25% lead.

Avoid acid based flux. Avoid plumbing flux that's specifically formulated for lead free soldering. Gereric rosen or petroleum based flux good stuff.
I like this one:

I've got the big jar of it. I stab my iron into it while hot to clean the iron, then re-tin the tip very regularly (I use a butane powered iron)

 

For electrical wiring, lead free is better because it doesn't create resistance, which means a better connection and easier desoldering when necessary. But yes, avoid plumber's flux, not good for electrical work.